How to Teach Your Horse to Spook

I don't want to talk about teaching your horse to spook in place, at that, I am not an expert. Rather, I want to discuss the behaviors you should engage in as a rider to ensure your horse jumps, snorts and acts squirrley at every opportunity.

I recently did many of these things to turn my ho-hum Morgan who had never spooked into a spooking machine after her first bobble. I am sure if you engage in these activities, I can guarentee you that your horse will spook.

1. Worry. Worry that everything might spook your horse.

2. Have zero confidence in your horse. The less confidence you have (and have in your horse) the more likely she is to spook.

3. Hold your breath. When we are relaxed we breathe normally, sometimes we even sing a song or laugh. Holding your breath is an awesome sign of tension and your horse will react to it.

4. Over react. Did it scare you? Make sure you let your horse know! You are, after all, a predator, so if you are scared-your horse will be do.

5. Go fetal. We curl up when we are afraid. Sitting up straight, with a deep seat is a sign of confidence, so make sure to fall forward on your horse, it might even help you come off if he is super scared.

If you decide that you don't want your horse to spook, then just relax, be confident, breath and sit back. There are many other things to help, but this is a good place to start.

How to Fit a Saddle: For Women!

I actually don't know that much about saddle fitting and what a shame. There is so much around biomechanics of both horses and humans that a well fit saddle can save hundreds of hours in resistance, injury and training, not to mention lots of saved money from vet bills, chiropracters, multiple saddle purchases and most of all-saved aggrivation.

I have been looking for a dressage saddle for several months and sitting in every one I could try for over a year. Today, I sat in one that was comfortable. It was the first time I ever sat in a saddle and went 'YES!'. It was like the first time I put on a pair of Dansko clogs, I just felt it was made for me.

Well, this saddle, a Schlesse, wasn't made for me, but it was made for women. After researching them tonight, I found they have published an excellent series on YouTube for the 9 points of saddle fitting. It is well worth 30 minutes of your time. If you have another 10 minutes watch the saddle fitting for women videos. In fact, if you are a woman, watch those first. They are ENLIGHTENING, I think I just came out of the saddle dark ages.

And don't freak out when you see the prices. Yes, they are expensive, but you can find used ones (that is what I am trying). And really, if it is the last saddle you ever buy-it might be worth the investment.

To find them on youtube, click here.

How to: Approach and Retreat-Little Objects

I got a question recently on how someone can get wet things near their horses head. This is one of my favorite topics, approach and retreat. There are a lot of different theories about approach and retreat, but I want to tell you the story of where the term 'broke' comes from in reference to horses.

I read Monty Roberts book 'The Man Who Listen's To Horses' a few years ago. What stuck with me most was the story about horse a 'broke'. Simply, it would be tied to a post and tormented with objects until its spirit was broken. *SHUDDER* From that moment on, I erased that word from my vocabulary.

So how do we ask our equine friends to accept objects they consider to be potential fatal (after all they are prey animals and I am sure you have met one that thinks it could be killed by a plastic bag)?

So, here is a semi-systematic way of helping your horse gain confidence about a scary object.

1. Find the comfortable distance. How far away can your horse be from the scary object and have NO reaction? That is your comfortable distance, make note and don't fudge. By the way it helps to aproach from multiple directions because horses don't generalize well.

2. Check your foundation. This is reality check #1. If you are trying to put something wet near your horses head, can you actually put a non wet object near your horses head? Will he willingly lower is head to have an object other than a halter, bridle or brush near his head?

If not, then find a way to bring your horse pleasure with other objects near his head. But follow the same instructions!

3. Lower the Criteria. Assuming your horse doesn't mind random things near his head, keeps his head low, stays relaxed, isn't worried, then if you are trying for a wet sponge, lower the criteria. Start with a damp towel, not dripping, but almost dry. Make sure he accepts it in other stops on his body and make it warm and pleasant. Use it to massage him! If that works well then go to step #1. Find the comfortable distance.

4. Move slowly. Horses are smart creatures and they are programmed to protect themselves. The hotter blooded/more high headed the horse (regardless of breed), in my opinion takes longer to accept new things, but if done RIGHT will accept them more willingly than a horse who cares less. Moving slowly and taking the time will make your life so much easier in the logn run!

5. Relax. If you can't relax, it is likely your horse won't either. Getting mad, yelling, screaming, crying does little to inspire your horse to be confident. Trust me, I know. I have spent a lot of time doing all those things. Just take a deep breath and pretend you are teaching a kid how to read for the first time. Lots of patience!

6. Approach and retreat. Once you have lowered your criteria, prepared yourself to move slowly AND know the comfortable distance, then approach and retreat. What does that mean? Simple. Move the object slowly toward your horse and I mean SLOWLY, be soft in your body language and watch your horse. Watch for tension, ears, eyes anything that indicates what you are doing is NOT ok. If you see that retreat (slowly of course) and just do something random with the object. Do I need to repeat something not scary? If you can touch your horse with the object, then when you retreat continue to do something pleasurable with it to him.

7. Have patience. Make this a part of your daily routine and slowly close the gap. When you introduce a new element it all starts over, but the more you do these things the less your horse will freak out.

I have some different techniques for bigger objects, but all of this information applies, just some different ways to apply them.

I cannot emphasize enough-if your horse freaks out when you pull out a sponge halfway across the arena, then start ALL the way across the arena. You do NOT want to your horse to pull back if tied. So as absurd as it may feel, this is for your horse, not your ego.

Balance

There is a lot of discussion about balance when it comes to horses, usually in reference to us as riders. We are always looking for a way to better position our bodies, create better harmony and sometimes, for ways to just not fall off of our horses.

But there is another kind of balance, how do you marry two disparate disciplines to find what will work for both and leave your conscious clear. Confused? Hold tight, let me explain.

If you are a new reader or a (very) faithful longtime reader, you will know that I am interested in a few horse related things:

1. Parelli/Natural Horsemanship

2. Dressage

3. Trail Obsticales

AND to be able to do them all with gaited and non-gaited horses. Talk about a perplexing set of interests. Here are some of the examples conflicts:

1. Unless you teach your gaited horses to trot, you can't officially pass some of the level Parelli 3 and 4 skills.

2. It is believed you cannot compete in USDF or USAE Dressage competitions with a gaited horse.

3. Can't pull a log in a trail obsticle course with a dressage saddle.

Not to mention that "purists" in many of the disciplines say that they can't be mixed. Crap, does that mean I have to pick one? Does that mean I can only be so 'savvy' with a gaited horse? Or never do dressage with a Paso Fino? Or not ride in a trail obsticle course with my dressage saddle?

No, my friends, it is all a matter of balance. I have spent much of the last few years finding that balance and developing the confidence to make the decisions that are best for my goals. It is imperative to be willing to take in new information, but you don't always have to choose to use it.

I will be taking lessons from someone who may suggest I use a flash on my horse, or perhaps even a tie down. These are things I have done, but I no longer wish to do. I am happy to take the suggestion, but ultimately, I am in charge. As I told Santana's owner when she took him home: You will get a lot of advice, but ultimately it is up to you to make the decision that is best for your horse, do what you think is right.

I might not ever be Parelli Level 4 or a riding Dressage Level 4, but then again, maybe I will. But whatever I achieve, it means I have done it with balance.

Tounge Relief

What exactly is tounge relief and why would you care about it? Well, first it is important to undertand the types of bit pressure. You can review my post on Types of Bit Pressure for a quick tutorial.

Many bits restrict the tounge, even though that may not be the main point of the pressure. The Myler's contend in A Whole Bit Better, that a horse generally needs more tounge relief as they get finished. That is possibly true, but what I really believe is, you will know when there is something wrong with your bit.

If your horse is biting at the bit, sticking out their tounge, avoiding opening their mouth here is something to think about: THEY ARE COMMUNICATING with you.

I have been such an idiot watching Precious fuss with her bit for a year then it dawned on me. She isn't just telling me, she is screaming at me. This bit is no longer working for her. Her bit has some tounge relief, which is the ability to move the tounge around and swallow. Many bits are so restrictive that horses cannot do these things.

However, her bit (pictured right) puts its primary points of pressure on the bars. For Precious, this was originally a godsend, she hated nose pressure, tounge pressure then all of a sudden we found the right combination of bar and curb pressure. But just like us, horses evolve. As the horse matures physically and in training, the horse might benefit from a different bit.

I have tried two "ported" bits. Basically a bit that allows for Precious to move her tounge around and swallow, but still retain the bar pressure that is so effective for her. I was highly successful my first day, putting her in the bit on the left. This bit (I had it in my bit box) does not have the curb action, although you can put a curb chain on it, I just didn't have the proper attachments. This was amazing for her, she was so collected and so soft. But it was just the first ride. One of the Myler brothers told me years ago, that you have to take several rides in your new bit to know if it is the right one. I only took one, however, because I wanted to ride with curb action on the bit, as this was designed. The action of the rings can cause it to twist in the mouth unless you have perfect had position without the curb chain, so while I am really not relying on the curb, I do need it to hold the bit together.

Today we rode in a Kimberwick, that has a nice wide port. It went well, required more contact, but will be appropriate for Juliana, Precious' primary rider. This gives her something that will give her more refinement, but still allows for correction if she needs it. The previous bit requires obedience by the horse and well, Precious isn't always known as obedient. In my mind, it is the reward for good behavior, so I will use it when she wakes up on the right side of the stall.

Tune Up

It has been a long time since I have posted on Learninghorses.com. Suffice to say, a lot has happened for me in the last year, but the most recent result is that I am now living back in Portland. I moved back a couple of weeks ago and I am enjoying the city life.

Precious will be staying at Synergy Stables, our farm in Junction City, OR. Phaedre will be with me at Heavenly Ranch in Banks.

For the short term, I have brought Precious up with me for a tune-up. I haven't ridden her much in the last couple of years and it shows. Nothing wild or crazy, but the soft collected horse is really going more for stiff and strung out. I'm trying to put it back together.

Here are some of the reminders I had to give to Precious today:

1. Whoa means stop. Not stop in 3 or 4 steps, but stop. To me, the whoa is the stopping of the forward movment of the horse. Basically, not pull back on your horse, instead, prevent him from going forward. If you are riding with contact this can be as simple as closing your hands on the reins and sitting deep in your seat and dropping weight in your stirrups. If you are preventing your horse from going forward and not asking him to go backward, what is he supposed to do?

2. Everything gets sloppy with speed. Slow down. If something isn't working at trot/gait or canter, perfect it first with the walk and work your way up. Precious and I spent most of our ride today at the walk. It was easier for me to remind her and easier for her to accomplish.

3. Leg does not mean speed. Precious wasn't bolting out from underneath me, but as I increased the leg cue, she wanted to travel faster. What is the message here? Remember to be consistent in how you ask. Make sure to have two different cues and never allow one to mean another.

4. Look where you are going. If you don't know where you want to go, neither would your horse. Do you look down at your shoes when you are walking? I think not. Have vision.

5. Be specific and ask specifically. Precious wouldn't stand next to the mounting block where I wanted her to. I had to move her over 4 times, but by the end, she knew exactly what I wanted. I didn't take 'close enough', I asked specifically and got specifically.

It was a fun ride and just amazing to remember how far my girl has come.

Dianne Sept Lesson

Today I had a lesson from Diane Sept. She is a connected riding instructor with a very long history in gaited horses. We are concerned about Pidgeon Fever in our area so I we are leaving horses at home, but someone let me borrow their Tennessee Walker.

Although not everything Diane taught me was new, the way it was put together was entirely new. First, the lesson focused on me, not my horse, which was a NICE change of pace. I have gotten to a point with my riding where I get less and less feedback about my overall riding picture, while we focus on improving the horse. Not to sound snotty, but I am generally the best student in a clinic because I listen and adapt well. So, I can get great results even in an hour lesson.

So I will call the overall picture of what Diane taught me 'rider silence'. Have you heard the term 'radio silence'? That is when there is no sound on the radio. Rider silence is no noise in the rider's body. I have had many instructors that have had me push the horse to move out with my body, Diane asked me to feel the horse move and let THAT move my body. But not my entire body, my hips were connecting with the back feet of the horse, my upper body was reaching up, quieting the movement in my body.

The result? I was able to open up the horse, he was reaching for the contact, stretching through his topline and putting himself together. It was *very* cool.

What was interesting is that I had been pretty quiet with an impulsive horse and busy with a lazy horse, but I learned I could be WITH the horse in rider silence. I went home and rode Tesoro and he was very relaxed although speedy, so I will ask Diane about that! But I have to admit, when I actually got all of Diane's suggestions working in harmony I didn't have rushing problems. *MAYBE* I just answered my own question!

And by the way THUMBS UP for Diane.

Horse Slaugther-My Perspective

On a message group I belong to, there has been a dialogue about horse slaugther. Many people have weighed in, most in support of slaughter. I rarely state my opinions publicly, but here goes. Remember, it is just my opinion. Here is what I wrote:

It is an interesting conversation. There are many pros and cons. I have only had horses for seven years, so I haven't seen the cycles that many of you have, but here is my greatest concern:

When there was a meat buyer at auction, there was a bottom value for a horse. The better trained, the better looking, the BETTER the horse was, the higher price. Most of us are riding, owning, producing quality horses that don't end up at auction, but as I drive by the auction house every day when I go to work, I can tell you it is active and alive.

Now that horses have to go somewhere, they are being sold for $50 and $75. I know someone who actually bought a trained horse for $25 (not my version of trained I'm sure, but they were willing to ride it). A horse for $25? So, the horses that don't sell go back to their homes where they are not a match, or where owners cant afford them. Horses that are sold are now disposable because they were only $25 or $75. I can spend $25 in the blink of an eye-I can't even fill my truck for $75, but I spent THOUSANDS to buy my horses (and I got some good deals). They are NOT disposable. They require quality care and only the best situations. I have tried to sell Tesoro, I did for years, but couldn't find him the right home because (like Dianna said) I knew what he needed and I couldn't find it. I would never take him to auction, but think of all the people who are NOT responsible like us. .

They are out there. Have you been to a large boarding facility lately? Have you encountered a serious backyard breeder? Have you looked at Craigslist? Have you visited your neighbors in the woods? Well, I have done all of those things, the way people treat horses is SCARY. If I was a horse up for auction, I would be very afraid.

When the price of a horse is less than a tank of gas (and yes, I know someone who bought a Paso Fino at auction for $75), it doesn't just hurt the horse market, it hurts the animals we took responsibility for when we decided to breed. I wouldn't want to be the untrained horse that hops from home to home to home because it is disposable. Maybe that is why it learned to kick or bite, because it had to defend itself. For irresponsible people it is easy to give up and try again. and again. and again. and again. Only the horse suffers. I cannot abide by that. I would rather see a horse humanely euthanized (or dog, or cat) than to suffer the indignity (and possibly suffering) of irresponsibility.

For this, and many other reasons, I support horse slaugther as a necessity in the marketplace. It should be humane, regulated and taxed. I actually support humane horse slaugther more than the hunting I grew up with where if you didn't have a clean kill, you would track an animal to finish it off. I grew up eating that meat, where an animal very well may have suffered. Now that I think about it, I might not eat game again.

It is a very fine line.